Incredible Service, Amazing Food & Surprisingly Intimate - Windstar Cruises - Rome to Barcelona

Incredible Service, Amazing Food & Surprisingly Intimate 

 It Can Only Be Windstar!

After having returned from a week’s cruise with Windstar onboard the Wind Surf I’ve found myself desperate to finish my blog purely so that I don’t forget or leave anything out about this incredible weeks sailing. It was so good, I'm not even sure I know where to start….

Firstly let’s get to know the facts and figures; the MSY Wind Surf holds 310 passengers with around 197 crew which means no lines or waiting, there’s always someone there to help. In terms of staterooms there are 122 deluxe ocean view staterooms, 31 deluxe ocean view suites and 2 deluxe ocean view bridge suites. At almost 15,000 tonnes the Wind Surf is actually the world’s largest sailing yacht and when I saw her I have to admit she was even larger than I had imaged but after having experienced the cruise I would say the size is pretty perfect. For me, it wasn’t until I saw the Wind Surf up close to other cruise lines I realised I pretty much had my own private yacht… And I can’t lie, I did feel rather smug!

Day 1 – Rome/Civitavecchia – Embarkation Day

My day started off with a mild panic, our flight was delayed by over an hour so my mind was racing with all the usual questions… What if we miss our transfer? What if they forget about us? What do we do? Needless to say, I soon learnt that as like everything with Windstar, I needn’t worry at all as they have everything under control. As we landed we were greeted with a friendly smile and someone holding a Windstar clipboard. Phew! After picking up our luggage we were taken to our transfer and after a pleasant journey we swiftly arrived at the ship. We were around 20 minutes early for embarkation but that soon passed as we were greeted with drinks and the usual paperwork to complete as like all cruise lines upon embarkation. The whole embarkation process was nice and easy, different stopping stations where we filled out details, gave in paperwork etc – along with welcome champagne of course! We were then escorted to our stateroom, number 325, one of the deluxe ocean view staterooms. It was lovely, very well appointed and far more spacious than I’d imagined. I came onboard with my mum, and for me the easiest tester for a stateroom in terms of size and amenities is how well it manages two females trying to get ready before dinner – the stateroom passed the test! I don’t know where to start, from the fruit basket, chocolates and array of L’occitane bathroom products to the ever so comfy bed, within 5 minutes I was already sold on Windstar. 

The door knocked and Dani our steward was there to introduce himself. He even told us if there was anything we needed just to leave him a little note. I found this quite a nice touch, no one likes the whole awkwardness of wanting to ask your steward a quick question or for a quick favour but not knowing when you’ll see them next so this was great, plus I’ve never wanted to appear rude by leaving a note, so for him to suggest to us that this was acceptable was fantastic. We mentioned to him we needed our bed converting into a twin however we said not to worry about it now as he must be busy with everyone embarking and we said feel free to do it later when he had more time. Unbelievably we went for lunch, returned an hour later and the beds had been separated into a twin with a bedside table in between – now that was fast service!

We wandered around the ship wanting to get a feel for the place and have a nosey; it certainly was a fun to explore. Soon enough it was time to get ready and join everyone on deck for the sail away party. Magical, that’s the only way to describe the feeling you get when the music starts and the sails go up. You get a sense of pride as you look around at your beautiful surroundings; that’s when you realise just how lucky you are. We all headed to dinner in AmphorA, their main restaurant.

No reservation required, just turn up anytime between 7pm – 9pm and they will seat you. This I loved, it was so relaxed and it’s all on your own time and pace. You get experience things just how you want it, which I learnt is pretty much the essence of Windstar. The food was fabulous! So tasty, and there’s great choice. Along with an array of starters and deserts they have around 6 main dishes to choose from and a wide choice of sides. If you don’t fancy any of the main dishes they always have around 4 standard choices such as a steak, chicken etc which you can then pair up with the sides too. We all sat around, got to know each other and the next thing you know it was 10pm, I was pretty exhausted from a long day so I decided to get an early night. On the way back to the stateroom my mum and I decided to swing by the library area and pick up a DVD. This was how good our cruise was: we picked up a DVD that night and it remained unwatched the whole cruise. We handed it back in on the last night after we hadn’t had a chance to watch it as we simply had so much fun onboard that staying in our room to watch a DVD was literally the last thing on our mind.

Day 2 – Portoferraio

We woke up to sun! This was a nice surprise considering it was November and we were sailing the Med. We headed to the Veranda for breakfast where we sat on deck and enjoyed our first morning onboard the Wind Surf. The Veranda is their ‘buffet’ style restaurant open for breakfast and lunch; you can sit indoors or on deck. The choice for breakfast was amazing, you could choose from fruits, pastries, ham, cheeses, cereal etc to a buffet of hot food or if you wanted they also had an a la carte menu for breakfast. I must point out they do also open up the Compass Rose for breakfast, however we never made it there as the Veranda was simply so good. And for those who never make breakfast…. You could swing by the Yacht Club and grab a pastry and a coffee. The Yacht Club was open until 5pm and served sandwiches and cakes throughout the day also.

We decided to get off and explore, we’d been provided with detailed maps and leaflets for the port so we wandered for hours enjoying a new place. We got back just in time to catch lunch at the Veranda, again we sat outside to make the most of the beautiful weather. There was a storm heading our way so we knew it wouldn’t stay this good for long. Lunch was brilliant. Again, they had a huge buffet with a big choice of hot dishes, salads, pastas and a cooking station with a changing special each day. Oh, and if that wasn’t enough they had the a la carte menu when you could order things like fries, burgers, hot dogs, pizza. We headed to the pool deck to grab a sunbed; we were given towels, asked what we wanted to drink and then were left to soak up the sun. The pool deck has 2 hot tubs, one pool, a good amount of sunbeds and a pool bar – what more could you want! There was also plenty of sunbeds on the other decks too so no need to fight! 

 

Tonight was the captains cocktails and I don’t think I’ve ever met such a charismatic character, I think in his past life he must have been a comedian as his welcome speech was brilliant! Tonight my mum and I had dinner in Candles, one of the 2 speciality restaurants onboard. Normally, weather permitting it would be for dining outside, however given it was quite cold they transformed the Veranda making it a beautiful dining experience with a lovely ambience. This was by far the best meal I've eaten in a long time. Wow. My main was the fillet mignon and then you choose your side dishes. We decided to get a range of sides to share as they had fresh vegetables, creamy mushrooms and leeks, parmesan potatoes, it was simply divine. 

 

After dinner we headed to the Compass Rose and met up with the rest of the group for drinks. It had a lovely feel to it in there, dark wood, comfy seats and the best entertainment! A duo from England, who sang and played guitar – they were honestly incredible and they were such good fun, I think they honestly made up part of why we loved the cruise so much. We had the drinks package added on as part of our cruise, and that meant we felt much more relaxed, no need to worry about a bill at the end. It was $54pppd, and basically anything under $12 was included in the package. Soft drinks, teas and coffee were included complimentary anyway to all guests so it was only alcoholic beverages that made up the package. Despite Windstar not being all-inclusive, my advice would be to simply account for the drinks package as part of your overall upfront cruise cost and there you go – it’s all inclusive! At least for those who don’t drink there is therefore the option of not having to pay for it so I think it just makes perfect sense for the product.

Day 3 – Monte Carlo (Was Portofino)

We were originally scheduled to be in Portofino today, however due to the bad weather the Captain made an announcement the night before explaining we would no longer be able to call there. It’s totally understandable; the weather coming in really wasn’t great so we headed for Monte Carlo instead where we could at least be in the safety of the harbour. We were due to be there the day after anyway so this way we had 2 full days docked in Monte Carlo – hats off to the Captain and crew for their fast thinking and swift organisation. After having been to Monte Carlo many of times before we only briefly got off the ship returning to spend most of the day attempting to dry off from the rain. We headed up to the Veranda where yet again we were spoilt for choice in terms of their food. After having mooched around the yacht I thought my afternoon would be best spent in the gym. 

 

For the size of the ship the gym was very impressive. From the usual cardio machines to the weights and floor space it was very large and not only that but they had various classes throughout the day that were all included at no extra charge. Guests of Windstar are encouraged to stay very active and I think this is great, especially seeing as the food is so good you do tend to eat more than you would back home. Before dinner we all met in the Lounge for a drink which had a lovely relaxing feel and a great band playing throughout the evening. At 6:30pm every night one of the team would do a quick 30 minute talk on the port for the next day, running through all the excursions, any options we had plus general history and points of interest. Tonight we dined in the Stela Bistro, which was amazing food. I had an onion tart and French onion soup to start followed by a steak; I did skip dessert (as though I was trying to be healthy after having gone to the gym earlier... despite already having 3 courses). The speciality restaurants onboard were all included in the cruise fare, bookable once onboard and they were pretty easy to get space in which was great. After dinner we ended up in the Compass Rose, of course!

Singing, dancing and drinks until late, after which we decided to hit the hot tub. Now, 1am may seem like an unusual time to head to the hot tub, but honestly, we were having such fun we didn’t want the night to end. The rain had stopped, and the air was nice and warm so it seems like a perfect idea, especially as we had the twinkly lights of Monte Carlo as a backdrop. Again, it was just one of those wow moments that really make you stop and think. 

Day 4 – Monte Carlo

The rain was light in the morning, so after grabbing breakfast in the Veranda we all headed off for a stroll and joined the local petit train to take us on a 1 hour roundtrip journey around the sights of Monte Carlo. After heading back to the ship I decided I try out the room service for lunch and I'm glad I did. I went for a steak sandwich and fries and it certainly was yummy, made even better by the courtesy call 20 minutes later asking not only if I’d enjoyed the meal but if I’d like my tray collected. Now that’s service for you. I split my afternoon between the hot tub and the gym followed by a much deserved nap. It was one of our groups birthdays the following day and as they hadn’t tried Candles as of yet I stopped by reception and enquired as to if by any chance I could get a table for 6 the following night in the restaurant. They made the reservation without any issues. That night after all meeting in the lounge we headed to AmphorA for our evening meal, again we turned up at a time that suited us (between 7pm-9pm) and asked for a table of 10. Not a problem at all. We had a lovely evening getting to know new friends and all being part of the same wonderful experience. After dinner heading off to the Compass Rose was a must, the duo in there were simply incredible. I decided to stick to the tea/hot chocolate and have an ish-early evening. I wanted to get a nice early start for the next day. I swung by ‘Cigars under the Stars’ before I left, it’s a small cigar room/bar just above the Compass Rose, gorgeous furniture and had a nice feel to the place, it’s nice that for a small ship there’s more options than most would think. The Captain did let us know that as the weather was still quite bad, instead of leaving Monte Carlo around 2am, taking it slow and possibly having to endure rough seas along the way we would stay docked until 6am and then go full speed to Cannes to arrive us only 30 minutes later than scheduled. That sounded like a far better idea to me, I liked the planning ahead – the Captain was a smart man!

Day 5 - Cannes

Every evening they provide you with the following days information printed out such as various events, timings and other important information. We noticed they were offering a chance to join the head Chef on a market tour. We swung by reception to sign ourselves up, grabbed a quick breakfast and then headed off to join the group. The Chef explained that although a lot of produce comes onboard in bulk at various stages to comply with all food, health and safety standards, they went out around 3 times a cruise to pick up fresh, local food. This not only gave their menu a more authentic feeling, but it always meant they were able to create new dishes as specials so that that the food was kept relevant and more in tune with the ports they visited. The tour lasted around an hour and a half. We saw the Chef buy Sea bass for that evenings special dish, along with local cheese, olives and vegetables. It was nice to get a behind the scenes look at how things are run. We headed back to the ship for a quick lunch before we were off again on another excursion – this time a paid, organised shore excursion. Greeted from the tender, we were guided on to a coach where we were given a talk about the surrounding areas along the way to Antibes. Once we’d arrived our guide took us on a walking tour of the old city where we ended at a bar for Absinthe tasting! After this we were given a bit of free time before the coach departed. The whole excursion ran smoothly, it was well planned and organised. By the time we arrived back at the tender we were the last group to board, the night had set in and the boat had its sails up and the lights on. What a sight, it was absolutely stunning. We were all scrambling around in the tender taking turns to get a picture from the window before we got too close. Now here’s the really good part… the tender driver had noticed what everyone was doing and he not only stopped the tender, but proceeded to slowly turn it from left to right so everyone had the opportunity to get a good photo. Again, it’s those little magical moments that the staff create for you that you’ll never forget.

 Back onboard we got ready for dinner and then headed to Candles for the birthday meal. Yet again, the food didn’t disappoint being just as good as it was on our first visit. The best part, one of the head waiters noticed us from the morning tour and commented that as we were in Candles we hadn’t been able to pick the special from the main dining room menu which was the Sea bass we’d seen them buy earlier. Without even prompting he offered to bring us a dish for the table to arrive along with our other main courses, what a perfect idea. I think you get the picture now, but just in case you’ve not quite caught on yet, the dish was superb, as with all food onboard you just couldn’t fault it. After our mains, the lights went down and the staff gathered round to sing happy birthday and presented the birthday boy with a cake! Strangely enough it was a banana cake, which just so happened to be his favourite – Windstar really are spot on every time! 

Off to the Compass Rose we headed for our usual evening entertainment, just as good as all the nights previous however as time went on we found that despite starting as a 2, then a group of 6, 8 etc we noticed the whole bar became one big family by the end of the cruise. The water sports Marina was open today, which unfortunately we missed as we had so many other things to do today but it’s a great little extra and just adds to the mountains of activities Windstar offer.

Day 6 – Marseilles 

The bad weather finally seemed to pass and we woke up to glorious sunshine. It was time for breakfast on the deck again! We then did the Galley tour to take another sneak peak at what goes on behind the scenes and it was fascinating learning just what goes on without us even realising it. Wow, the staff work hard. This port was by far my biggest surprise and was much more interesting and exciting than I’d had in mind. After exploring the area we headed back and sat on the pool deck. It seemed a crime not to enjoy the glorious weather so I sat back and relaxed with a glass of champagne, you know – when in Rome (or Marseilles!).

 

I decided for the gym again whilst I left everyone enjoying the hot tub, I knew what we had in store for the evening. A BBQ on deck! Windstar pulled out all the stops, the really did. We had everything from a giant suckling pig, ribs and chicken to paella, lobster and salads. The evening was so memorable, a huge spread of food cooked right in front of us on the top deck. Tables laid beautifully, candles, blankets and of course the smooth and attentive service by the crew. 

Yet again, Windstar created a once in a lifetime evening that you’ll never forget. After dinner of course we headed to the Compass Rose, with this being our second to last evening we decided to make this the best one yet. At one point we all got up and danced, and I never get up and dance…. But in the spirit of the evening we all got carried away with the fun we were having and really allowed ourselves to let go and just enjoy the moment. Even the staff in the bar managed to let go a little and do a bit of dancing, behind the bar of course! I love the fact the staff onboard Wind Surf not only show you good service and are extremely professional but they actually let their personalities shine through and become more personable. I decided to head to bed whilst the others had a quick go in the Casino, which was yet again surprisingly large for this size yacht!

Day 7 – Port Vendres 

Today was our last full day. I’m pretty sure you’ll have noticed I started the blog full of ‘I’s and ‘my’s but I'm ending it with ‘our’ and ‘we’ – but that’s just how it was. My mum and I embarked the ship as a pair, by the time we left we were part of a group. After breakfast and a mild panic of realisation I’d lost my earring we decided to risk the weather and explore the port. I’d like to point out my earring is still lost however I can’t praise the staffs efforts to find it enough, most importantly our room steward Dani who literally took apart our entire room and went so far as to move the bed/furniture. The sweetest thing was how apologetic he was when he hadn’t found it for me. Unfortunately when you lose just 1 earring and have no idea where on the ship you last had it in, it is pretty much a needle in a haystack situation, but they promised to contact me if it was found even after I’d disembarked and I couldn’t ask for more than that. Port Vendres seemed rather quiet so we figured we’d hop on another petit train as at least that wouldn’t take up too much time but would give us a good overview of the area. The local petit train was actually recommended as a great attraction in the port talk the night previously in the lounge. It was a great start, though the winding lanes and eventually after 20 minutes it took you to the next town which was beautiful. This was a stop off point, so they explained we were free to get out and wander however being out of season the trains ran only once an hour. This being the last day, and knowing we had so much to cram in we decided instead of getting off we’d continue through and enjoy the second part to the journey. WOW. So we set off back in the same direction, all presuming we were going back the same route but then all of a sudden the train made a turn and we started going higher and higher up this hill. 10 minutes later we found ourselves right at the top by an old fort, the same fort we’d seen earlier miles in the distance perched high above a cliff. The train stopped and we were given the opportunity to get out and take pictures.

  

Once back onboard the ship we grabbed a spot of lunch and did our packing. I left it until as late as possible to pack; I basically didn’t want to face reality that I was going home. I’d had an incredible week and I didn’t want it to end. We were given colour coded luggage tags relating to the time we would be disembarking and asked to leave our suitcases outside our room by 2am. We had our final dinner in AmphorA, this again didn’t disappoint as it was simply delicious. We made dinner last as long as possible and we were enjoying the food, wine and good company. Unfortunately it was an ish-early evening for me as we had to be off the yacht quite early for our flight. We stayed until the duo finished in the Compass Rose which was around midnight and then said our goodbyes and headed off to bed. I’d loved every minute onboard the Wind Surf and I honestly could have stayed on for much longer!

 

Day 8 – Barcelona - Disembarkation day

Waking up and realising we really did have to leave today did put me in quite a grumpy mood! We headed to Veranda for breakfast, sat outside on deck watching the lights of the dock shine in the dark morning sky and I realised instead of being grumpy for leaving I should be happy with the experience I’d had over the last week. Windstar had offered us a transfer, but as I’d been to Barcelona before and knew it was quite a short and easy transfer we decided to make our own way there in a taxi. We said our goodbyes to the friends we’d made along the way and the staff we’d become so fond of and reluctantly made our way off the ship….

Top 5 things to note.

1.       The staff were incredible, literally every single one of them.

2.       The food was to die for. Great choice, presentation but more importantly the taste!

3.       What you want, when you want. They make things work around you and how you want your experience to be.

4.       It’s your own private yacht. From the open bridge policy to the ability to uncover what goes on behind the scenes.

5.       Windstar creates moments that you know you’ll never forget

Windstar Cruises won #1 in the small ship category for the Conde Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards in 2014 beating the likes of Silversea and Seabourn, and after one week onboard… I really know why!           

 

Lindblad Expeditions - October 2014 - A Galapagos Adventure

National Geographic Endeavour – Galapagos – 17 to 27 October 2014

A trip with Lindblad Expeditions is unlike any other cruise you can take – it’s a geography lesson, safari, adventure holiday, photography workshop and conservation project all rolled into one.  It’s the chance to explore some of the world’s most extraordinary landscapes in the company of 70 expert staff and fewer than 100 guests, who are all equally excited to share this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

I sailed on the National Geographic Endeavour seven night itinerary from Baltra to San Cristobal, and was lucky enough to see everything you would hope for on a Galapagos expedition.  From blue footed boobies to lava lizards, sea lions to sharks, the endemic wildlife was all around us as we hiked and snorkelled around the volcanic islands.  Each day could be as action packed or relaxed as you like, with a range of activities on offer, and the seven naturalists were always on hand to explain the features of the unique ecosystem to us.  Lindblad Expeditions is a pioneer of eco-tourism and their experience in the region was evident.

Day 1

After a long flight from Amsterdam to Guayaquil, the comfort of the Hilton Hotel was extremely welcome.  We received an information pack detailing tomorrow’s schedule, along with vouchers for drinks and breakfast.  Lindblad have been using the hotel every Saturday for several years, so the arrival process runs extremely smoothly whether or not you have booked the recommended group flights from the United States.  If you wanted to spend an extra night in Guayaquil, the hotel has a beautiful pool area, spa, numerous restaurants and links with guides who run very good city tours on request.

Day 2

The 6.45am wake-up call was relatively late by expedition standards, and after a delicious breakfast buffet we all assembled in the lobby to await the buses to the airport.  Our luggage had already been collected from the room and expedited to the ship.  Once at the airport, there was a Lindblad representative on hand at all times to answer any queries and ensure we all received tickets for the National Park on arrival in the Galapagos.  The domestic flight took about one and a half hours and as we landed at Baltra we were greeted by an unusual sight…an iguana casually making its way across the runway!  Lindblad had arranged a VIP lounge and refreshments while we waited for everyone to clear immigration, and then it was back on the bus for a short journey to the docks.  I was slightly apprehensive about travelling by Zodiac for the first time but it felt very secure and I soon got used to jumping out for the wet landings.  Once on board the ship we were shown to our cabins before going to the lounge for the welcome meeting.  Our expedition leader, Carlos, was absolutely wonderful – very entertaining but also an excellent coordinator and pre-empted the majority of our questions about the activities. 

The cabin itself (Category 4) was very comfortable and much more spacious than it looked in the brochure photos.  There were twin beds, plenty of storage space, a writing desk, an armchair and the bathroom was small but perfectly formed, as on most ships.  Lindblad has an unusual policy in that although there is a secure drawer for valuables, the door to your room remains unlocked.  While this felt slightly unnerving at first, after a couple of days we appreciated that carrying around a key could be quite impractical given the nature of the activities.

That afternoon we had our first excursion to Las Bachas beach on Santa Cruz island.  This was a fantastic taster of what we might see during the rest of the week – frigate birds circling above us, Sally Lightfoot crabs on the rocks and even a flamingo in the lagoon.  The National Park regulations state that there must be no more than 16 visitors per naturalist, and the small group size means you receive a very personalised tour, giving you the chance to ask as many questions as you want.

As the sun set we returned to the ship for a welcome cocktail with the Captain and officers, and were introduced to the other naturalist guides.  Dinner was a buffet, however on most other nights it was waiter service (in order to reduce waste, guests are asked to pre-select their main course).  The bar in the lounge was open every evening but never became very busy except for the nights when there was entertainment. It did however offer a wide range of cocktails, local beers and South American wines – impressive considering our remote location. 

Lindblad is proud of its Open Bridge policy so we tested this out on the first night.  It was fascinating to see the many navigations controls and charts, and the officers were more than happy to give us a tour.

Day 3

Today we explored North Seymour island which is the nesting ground for many blue footed boobies and frigate birds.  There is no bad time to visit the Galapagos, but October did seem to be a very good time, as in this transitional season you can see a lot of chicks and courting pairs, as well as new-born sea lion pups.  The weather in the islands is reliably warm and the only really change is the rainy or dry seasons, but the guides assured us that tropical rains have never stopped a tour yet. 

Back on the ship, we received the briefing about snorkelling and kayaking, and everyone was kitted out with their own wetsuit and snorkel gear.  The ship carries a huge range of equipment so there is no need to bring your own.  After lunch we attended a presentation about the oceanography of the islands, delivered by the underwater specialist Cindy.  During the week, her main job was to collect video footage of the marine world, as well as water samples to examine under the microscope, and she gave very interesting talks during the Recap sessions.

In the afternoon we visited the red sands of Rabida beach to test out our snorkelling skills and get to know perhaps the cutest Galapagos inhabitants…the sea lions!  There was a small colony of mothers and nursing youngsters, as well as the male “beach master”.  It was amazing to see them twisting and turning alongside us in the water, treating us as just another animal on the beach.

After dinner there was a lecture from Christian, our photography specialist.  As I (along with many other guests) had bought a new camera for the trip, this was a great opportunity to learn about all the different settings and how to make the most of the camera.  He also held a clinic every afternoon so that people could show him their photos and receive advice about how to improve or edit them.  This emphasis on photography is influenced by Lindblad’s connection with National Geographic and was definitely an attraction for many guests…everyone wanted to capture some perfect shots to show off back home!

Day 4

A very exciting wake-up call today as whales had been spotted nearby!  We all rushed out on deck in our pyjamas and were fortunate to see not one but two pods of pilot whales, accompanied by dolphins.  The ship turned back so we could observe the whales for a good 30 minutes in near silence as there were no other vessels in the area.  It was a truly special experience and we thought it would be the highlight of the day, but we were soon proved wrong!  Visiting Fernandina island that morning we were suddenly alerted to a distinctive fin in water – it was a killer whale hunting a sea lion just a few hundred metres away.  This island was also home to tens of thousands of marine iguanas, basking on the black lava rocks and sneezing out salt water.

Today’s lecture was about the geology of the islands, which all started to make sense as we approached the impressive cliff faces of Isabela island.  Some people spent the afternoon deep water snorkelling, but we took a Zodiac ride along the coast and spotted our first Galapagos penguins.  We spent the evening on deck for an “Equator party”, enjoying the complimentary glass of wine and doing the limbo as the ship crossed the 0° line.

Day 5

As I was getting used to the early starts by now, I attended the pre-breakfast stretching class on deck.  The ship had a dedicated Wellness specialist who organised daily classes as well as running the small spa.  In addition to standard treatments, the Endeavour has an extra special facility in the form of its floating spa.  This is a glass-bottomed platform that allows you to enjoy a massage in natural tranquillity, while simultaneously watching the tropical fish below. 

This morning we hiked around Urbina Bay on Isabela island, part of which was uplifted from the ocean as recently as 1954.  It was interesting to see a completely different landscape to the previous islands, with much more vegetation, and also spot our first Giant Tortoise.  We had the chance to relax on the beach and swim for a while before heading back to the ship for a special Ecuadorian themed buffet lunch.  The kitchen staff had really pulled out all the stops, with ceviche, suckling pig, cassava bread, fish in coconut sauce and a multitude of desserts and tropical fruit.  It was all delicious and interesting to see what the chef could achieve with a relatively limited range of seasonal and local ingredients.

We spent the afternoon kayaking around Tagus Cove, which was easier than expected and a very relaxing way to enjoy the scenery.  Then we went for an invigorating, uphill hike in order to enjoy the panoramic views over the volcano at sunset.

Day 6

We arrived at Santiago island and the choice for the pre-breakfast activity was either a hike through the mangrove forests or a beach walk with a focus on photography skills.  After devouring the breakfast buffet, we headed out again to Buccaneer Bay in the glass-bottomed boat and the great visibility meant we could see the schools of fish and sea stars as clearly as if we were actually underwater.  This was followed by another go at kayaking (we perfected the steering technique this time).  For these sorts of activities, sign-up was required to ensure everyone had the opportunity to participate at least once.

Today’s talk focussed on Charles Darwin and his own expedition, in preparation for our visit to the research centre the following day.  Later in the afternoon we were offered a further choice of activity – a nature walk or time to relax on the beach at Puerto Egas. 

The evening Recap included a preview of the video chronicle. Every Lindblad expedition has a videographer who records the excursions and edits the footage into a lovely souvenir DVD that is available to buy for $50 and ready to take home of the final day of your trip.

Tonight’s dinner was a barbecue on deck and it was great to eat outdoors under the stars.  Some of the multi-talented staff then entertained us with singing and piano in the lounge. 

Day 7

Today we had something of a culture shock as we arrived back into civilization in Puerto Ayora, the largest town on Santa Cruz.  We started with a really interesting tour of the Charles Darwin Research Station and learned all about its breeding program for Giant Tortoises.  Apart from Lonesome George, the program has had huge success at boosting the numbers of the different sub-species.  Then we had some free time to wander around the town’s souvenir shops and cafes. We particularly enjoyed the fish market where a few brazen pelicans and sea lions were hanging out and begging scraps from the fish sellers.

The options for the second half of the morning were a visit to a local school that Lindblad supports, a bike ride or a tour of a traditional sugar cane and coffee farm.  We learned about the production methods and were able to try some of the fiery moonshine.  Lunch was at a beautiful restaurant in the highlands, followed by our visit to the natural habitat of the Giant Tortoises.  

That evening we were treated to a presentation by one of the local scientists about his research, and after dinner a band of traditional musicians and dancers came on board to perform, which was a great way to experience the local culture.

Day 8

We spent out last full day on San Cristobal island, taking in three different locations.  The morning was spent hiking to try to catch a glimpse of the red footed booby and mockingbirds, plus we had our last chance to swim and enjoy the beach.  The ship moved during lunch to be closer to Leon Dormido, a very striking rock formation that gave snorkelers their best opportunity to see sharks. 

We also had the disembarkation debrief, so that everyone would be ready to go the following day and the ship could achieve its tight turnaround for the next group of explorers.

There was a champagne farewell party as we circumnavigated Leon Dormido, followed by a slideshow of favourite photos submitted by guests.  This was a lovely idea that added a personal touch to the expedition –I think everyone felt part of a little community who had shared a lot of special moments together.

After dinner we had the chance to go into Puerto Baquerizo Moreno to experience the Galapagueño nightlife…last Zodiac home at 11pm.  Even in the towns you can’t escape the wildlife, and we saw a large number of sea lions sleeping against the kerb or in the playground. 

Day 9

Sadly it was time to leave the Endeavour and our new friends, and return to real life.  Everyone caught the same flight to Guayaquil and was transferred back to the Hilton, where we could relax or explore the city further before catching the international flight home.  As with the entire trip, everything ran seamlessly once we arrived on the mainland and there was another guide at the hotel to ensure everybody knew their departure schedule.

The staff’s dedication to the conservation of the Galapagos is especially impressive and visitors cannot fail to be inspired by Lindblad’s initiatives in this area, which is another thing setting them apart from other tour operators.  Upon departure we were given the option to donate to the company’s conservation fund and in return, receive an equivalent discount voucher on a future expedition.

The enthusiasm of all the staff (naturalists and crew) combined with the unspoiled beauty of the islands made this an unforgettable trip, and I am so grateful to have had this opportunity!

Tauck European River Cruising – June 2014 – Wurzburg to Regensburg

Tauck Academy – MS Savor – 24-28 June 2014 – Wurzburg to Regensburg (Vilshofen)

Tuesday 24^th June - Wurzburg:

Our first experience with Tauck was being met by the friendly greeter in Frankfurt Airport and being led to our waiting mini-van. There were to be six of us in the transfer which would take about an hour to get to the port of Wurzburg in the Franconian area of Germany, which boarders with Bavaria.

The hour went very quickly with us all making our introductions and getting to know each other (3 other guests from the UK, and one lady from Seattle), and we were soon pulling up to the riverside at Wurzburg, from where we could see our home for the next few days – Tauck’s newest river vessel, the Inspiration class MS Savor (christened just the weekend before we arrived).

We were welcomed onboard by the Cruise Director Steve, and directed across the small lobby area to reception, where our passports were taken and we were swiftly issued with the key to our Category 7 suite, situated on Diamond Deck. Our luggage was taken by a crew member as he escorted us to our suite.

We quickly familiarised ourselves with our suite facilities – floor to ceiling French windows across one wall, a small lounge area with sofa, chair and table – right next to the mini bar which was stocked with complimentary soft drinks and a Nespresso coffee machine. We also have a large walk in wardrobe with hairdryer and iron/ironing board, and a vast bathroom with rainforest shower, a large vanity area and Molton Brown toiletries.

 As we didn’t arrive until late afternoon, Tauck were providing a light lunch in the Panorama Lounge rather than a full lunch in the main restaurant, so we headed down there and helped ourselves to sandwiches, salad and soup.The lounge, situated at the front of the ship, has plenty of large windows to allow full viewing of the gorgeous scenery that you pass through –this time it was the scenery of the Main-Danube Canal – and plenty of comfortable seating, either at tables for 4, small booths or on long sofa seating. There is a full bar in the lounge and the friendly waiters come around to take your drinks orders. There is also access to the sun deck from the lounge, and a small outside seating area. TV stations are at all of the windows and used for lectures onboard, before being discretely stored away in the window recesses.

This evening, we were being taken on a tour to Staatlicher Hofkeller for wine tasting. The wine cellars of the Residenz Palace are absolutely enormous (as is the former Prince Bishops’ palace situated above ground). We walked past vast barrels of wine which could easily have accommodated 30 people inside before our tour of 900 metres of the cellar tunnels brought us to the Red Cellar, where we were seated before sampling some of the local white wine, accompanied by our knowledgeable and funny guide Karl-Heinz.

 

After a taste of three local white wines and some Rye bread to soak it up, it was them time to return to the ship for dinner. Waiting for us in the lounge on our return were waiters armed with silver trays of champagne flutes and circling with canapés. We were introduced to some of the officers and crew onboard, before being welcomed to join them in the Compass Rose restaurant for our Welcome Dinner.

Our welcome dinner was a set menu this evening, but usually it is free dining in the main restaurant. The menu we had featured a smoked salmon amuse bouche, beef consommé,  marinated scallops and then a choice of veal tenderloin, roulade of sole or vegetable ratatouille tagliatelle for main course. The meal was accompanied by wines similar to those we had just tried in the Residenz Palace and rounded off by a delicious peach mouse and coffee. The food was all absolutely delicious, and the waiting staff were all very attentive and friendly.

Cocktails & drinks were being served back in the lounge after dinner, but after a 3am start this morning, we were ready to sink into our sumptuous bed back in our suite

Day 2 - Rothenberg:

We started today with breakfast back in the Compass Rose, which was buffet style, with a hot grill for freshly cooked eggs, omelettes, pancakes and French toast. These could also be ordered & served at your table. There was fresh fruit and yoghurts, cereals and pastries, and also a continental selection of meats and cheeses. 

Today we were cruising for the morning so had a chance to explore the ship a bit more. The lower decks have the entry level cabins and also the new Loft cabins, which are split level, having a raised seating area next to the window with an electronically controlled window and window dressings. These large floor to ceiling windows allow plenty of light to come into the room, as well as the opportunity to enjoy the views from the comfort of your room. Also down on deck one is the hair salon, fitness room, massage room and sauna/steam room.

One deck two, are the next set of accommodations including the mini suites, and also the Compass Rose restaurant.

Deck three houses the suites, the Panorama Lounge and also the alternative restaurant Arthur’s – named for Arthur Tauck Jr, the son of the original company founder. Arthur’s is a very small, intimate restaurant with only 8 tables and in the evening operates as a steakhouse restaurant. We had booked in here for this evenings dining. There is no charge to dine here, but as it is so small, pre-booking is essential.

 Above deck 3 is the sun deck. When possible, the sundeck is set up with sun-loungers, chairs, tables and wind breaks along the middle and aft of the ship. There is also a small putting green, and Jacuzzi. Towards the front is the bridge - which can be lowered as the ship moves under low bridges - and then in front of the Bridge is another seating area furnished with sofas, chairs and tables. After our scout around, we went down to the Compass Rose for lunch. As with breakfast it was a buffet set up, with cooked choices of carved pork shoulder, spaghetti & meatballs and grilled fish. All this was available with salad, meats and cheeses, soup, mini pizza and a choice of breads, then a dessert of strawberry tiramisu. By the time lunch was over, we had arrived into Schweinfurt which was our docking place for the medieval town of Rothenberg, our destination for this afternoon. Our driver dropped us just outside of the city walls as buses are not allowed into the old town area, and we had a short walk to the main square where we met our local guides. On a Tauck river cruise, you are escorted by 3 Tauck directors who look after you and escort you every day, but you are also met in each town by local guides. Today, our guide was taking us on an hours walking tour of Rothenberg including St Jakobs church and some beautiful gardens which look over the whole valley – a stunning view on a sunny day! We finished our tour in the main square again and had about an hour of free time. We were invited along with our Tauck director Armen to the local bakery where he treated us to the local delicacy – Snowballs – which are a ball made of pastry lengths (a bit like a ball of wool) covered in an array of chocolate, almond praline or sugar. Delicious when enjoyed on a sunny step in the main square and a really nice thought of Armen to buy them for us.

 

 

Back at the ship we had cocktail hour before dinner, so after freshening up, we went into the lounge to try the Cosmopolitans and canapés – both delicious. Dinner tonight was in Arthur’s which offers an alternative to the main dining room. There is a very small menu – salads and soups to start, with a choice of rib eye steak, Filet mignon surf & turf, salmon steak or a vegetarian option (which changes daily) and then a choice of berry cheesecake, Belgian Ice-cream sundae or mixed cheese and biscuits to finish. The wine served with dinner is pre-selected each evening, but a lady on our table (who’s family happens to own a vineyard) did ask for an alternative and the waiter did not hesitate to ask her preferences and provide her choice of wine. Our evening in Arthur’s was the first evening that the restaurant had been operational , so as we were finishing the Hotel Manager Mark came over to ask our opinion and to see if anything could be improved – we could not think of anything and were full of praise, the restaurant was lovely we really enjoyed our evening. After dinner we were invited back to the lounge to sample some of the music that is offered on Tauck’s Musical Magic Danube Cruise. A small selection of popular opera as well as more modern songs from a husband and wife couple who started their career with Tauck as Music Maestro hosts on the musical cruises, and now work on the operational side of Tauck. It was a great introduction to what guests can expect on the full cruise

Day 3 – Traversing the Main River and Main-Danube Canal:

Due to a problem with low water, our intended call to Bamberg today had to be cancelled in favour of a day on the river, meaning we could get closer to our final destination and not be stranded the wrong side of the canal! This was fine by us as it was nice to have a leisurely breakfast and spend a bit of time on deck.

  As the bridges on the Main River & Canal are all quite low, none of the sun loungers were useable today, but the seating area in front of the Bridge, which is slightly lower, was open, so we sat outside in the sunshine and watched the world go by. Most of the bridges could be sailed under ok if you were seated, however a few were so low, we all had to ‘hit the deck’ so to speak as the bridges passed over us – so close to the tops of the chairs we were just seated on! With that and the few locks we went through it was a really enjoyable afternoon – plus the scenery was gorgeous and the waiters there to bring your favourite tipple up from the lounge below.

Lunch we enjoyed in Arthur’s today, which has a ‘special of the day’ which changes every day. Today was hamburgers and they were delicious, served with a helping of fries. There was also soup and salad that you could help yourself too. Dinner was open tonight, so after our lazy afternoon and a few drinks in the lounge, we went down to the Compass Rose to eat. Tonight we had several choices again, our amuse bouche was a freshly made mini hamburger (2^nd of the day!), followed by salad and soup. For main course we had roasted duck, New York steak, or asparagus and goats cheese gnocchi. Dessert was a choice of fresh fruit, ice cream or an orange mousse Florentine – all delicious again! 

Day 4 – Nuremberg/Regensburg:

Today, as we had moved further down the river than originally planned our day’s itinerary changed again. We were originally offered a day tour to Nuremberg – either a walking tour of the old city, or a WW2 themed excursion taking in the Nazi parade grounds, Zeppelin fields and the new museum of the history of the Socialist party and Nuremberg trials that has been made out of the Convention Centre (originally built by Hitler for the Socialist Party rallies).

As we were further downstream, we were in turn further away from Nuremberg, so Tauck gave us an alternative choice. Those of us who had chosen the WW2 themed excursion could still go to Nuremburg, but our tour would be cut slightly short – missing out the Zeppelin fields and Parade grounds – as it would now take us about an hour and a half to get there. For those who had chosen the city tour (or those who did not want to do the long drive to Nuremburg), they were offering a trip to the medieval town of Regensburg.

We chose to continue with our plans for Nuremburg and boarded the coach at 9am. Today we were accompanied by Tauck Director Charlie who gave us a little talk on Germany and a brief introduction to the idea behind Nuremburg and what Hitler was trying to achieve making this the ‘most German of German cities’. He only talked for about half an hour and let us rest for the remainder of the journey. We seemed to arrive in Nuremberg in no time, and were met at the Documentation Centre museum by our guide Diana. As the museum if self-guided, she just briefly gave us an overview of the 18 rooms, and recommended the best parts for us to visit, the last room being focussed on the Nuremburg trials with a 10 minute video as well as further commentary on other artefacts from the time. It was so interesting; we could have spent all day looking around. On our way out of the museum, we were able to go outside onto a walkway that overlooked part of the convention centre which would have been used for the Nazi rallies. The size of it was quite chilling. 

Once we were back on the bus, we had a brief guided driving tour through the city and past the Nuremburg Court House where we could see the outside of the courtroom that held the war trials. We finished in the old town for a bit of free time. Before we set off on our own, Charlie and the local guide pointed out some places for lunch and Charlie also gave us €20 each for lunch – a nice touch from Tauck, meaning we didn’t have to put our hands in our pockets. We were in the main square already, so we decided to walk around the market and sample some of the local cuisine, rather than spend our short time in Nuremburg in a restaurant. So with our Bratwurst in hand, we had a half an hour walk around the local fresh food and flower market, before trying the traditional Lebkuchen gingerbread biscuits. Back on the coach, Charlie gave us a little bit more information about Germany and it’s culture, before allowing us another brief snooze…As we were nearing our destination, there was a bit of a change in plan; Tauck thought it would be nice for us to have a brief stop in a local town called Straubing, just for half an hour to stretch our legs. The town itself was really nice, with quite a large main square with clock tower and some decent shopping if you wanted to spend some Euro. As it was, we were all extremely thirsty and decided to stop at the nearest beer garden. Here we met up with some of the group who had chosen the trip to Regensburg so we all enjoyed a cold (large) Bavarian beer together – which in the end was compliments of Tauck again, as they picked up the tab for all of us. 

Back on our buses we were ready to get back onboard MS Savor, however there was a slight hitch…as the ship had to keep moving down the river to get to the starting point for their next trip on the Danube, it wasn’t moored quite where the Tauck directors and bus drivers thought it was, so we had a quite exciting treasure hunt through the surroundings of Straubing trying to find it – every time we crossed the winding Danube we were all on the look-out up and down the river! 

Eventually we found her, moored up alongside a rather large dyke, which we were all ready to climb across until we heard about the rather large moat on the other side…luckily one of the crew members had been out on one of the ships bikes and had found a dirt road that crossed the moat so the buses could drive us across there. Unfortunately, they couldn’t then drive down the second dyke to where the ship was moored as the dyke just wouldn’t hold the weight of the buses, so we had to walk. It was only about half a mile, and it really was quite an adventure, all of us laughing about it on the walk back. And of course, as soon as we arrived back onboard, there were refreshing towels for us as well as cool iced-tea (or champagne if you preferred).

Our hosted dinner was put back to a later time this evening to allow us plenty of time to freshen up after our long day, and meant we had some time to sit and talk about our tours with our fellow passengers over a cocktail in the lounge, which was great. According to the group of passengers who went, Regensburg is definitely somewhere for me to go back and visit!

Dinner this evening was our Farewell Dinner and as such was a set menu again. This time we had a herbed crepe amuse bouche followed by lobster bisque. Our starter was a bonbon of herbed salmon with caviar, followed by a choice of surf & turf, pan-fried monk fish or an olive & sage polenta. Dessert was a trio of mini desserts – crème brule, panna cotta and chocolate chip ice-cream. Everything was rounded off with a drop of cognac and homemade pralines – delicious.

The evening finished very quietly as most of us needed to pack for our departure the next day, so after saying a quick good bye to our new friends, we were back in our suite to finish packing. 

 

Day 4 – Vilshofen (disembarkation)

Overnight, the ship had continued sailing and made it to their allotted point along the river – which was a relief for all onboard I’m sure, and we were moored in Vilshofen. Disembarkation was seamless with our cases taken from outside of our suites an hour before departure and out onto the coaches for us. We had around a 2 hour transfer to Munich airport, so plenty of time to read, sleep or watch to landscape of Germany pass by the bus window.

Once we arrived at the airport, Juriee, our 3^rd Tauck Director gave us all the information we would need about which terminal we needed, and came into the terminal which each group to make sure we knew where to go for check in

Overall I loved this Tauck trip. We were so well looked after from start to finish and made to feel so welcome by every member of crew and Tauck staff. The ship itself was luxurious and comfortable, with excellent facilities. Although the repositioning itinerary we took was not a usual Tauck itinerary, the tours we took were similar to the regular tours and were so well organised and interesting, and being given a choice of what you wanted to do was great.

Finally the little Tauck touches were what really made it – whether it be the offer to try a local delicacy, a glass of beer on a warm day or the little cabin gifts waiting on our pillow each night, we were made to feel special and valued; and I suppose that is all you really want out of a travel experience.